Archive for the ‘Keeping Chickens’ Category

Keeping Chickens ? Taking Care of the Chicks

Do you ever feel like you know just enough about Keeping Chickens to be dangerous? Let’s see if we can fill in some of the gaps with the latest info from Keeping Chickens experts.

Taking care of the chicks does not require much although they may need extra attention.

If the chicken house is big, you will need to separate them from their mothers so that they are not pecked by other chicken or trampled on. The basics that the chicks will need are a clean dry place that will protect them from direct sunlight or cold and a lamp to warm up the place. When there are plenty of chicks, a separate house will be needed although for smaller numbers, a box placed in a space in the garage or a separate room will suffice. No matter where you keep your chicks in, the space provided must be secured from predators and other birds and animals.

When there is no special house to keep the chicks, a sturdy box is a very good and logical choice as it will cost nothing and could be moved around when there is a need. Place wood shavings in the floor of the box, if there are none, layers of newspapers will do. To insure cleanliness and prevent the chicks from diseases, remove the top sheets of the newspapers every day.

The chicks will also need a heat lamp. A good way to do this is to hang a 60-watt light bulb near a corner of the box about eighteen inches from the chicks. If the lamp is lower than that, cover the lamp with a piece of cloth to control temperature. A good way to know whether the temperature is right is when the chicks congregate beneath the lamp when they roost. When the lamps temperature is too strong, the chicks will tend to spread out inside the box away from the lamp.

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The height of the heat lamp must then be adjusted about two inches higher every week to wean them off the heat. After two weeks, the chicks will still need the extra heat but reduce the hours that the lamp is on especially during summer months.

The chicks will outgrow the box and you will need additional accommodation for them. Even so, provide a lamp where they could huddle together and get heat especially in the coldest hours of the morning or and when they need it, otherwise turn the lamp off to get them acclimatized to normal temperatures.

Clean water must be provided but even chicks scratch or step inside the water pan that could topple it. To prevent the newspapers or wood shavings from getting wet, place stones inside the water pan for ballast. Replenish food and water in the hopper daily and clean it from droppings.

Mix vitamins and minerals into the water to insure that the chicks grow healthy and to boost their resistance to diseases. This is especially important during the first week. For food, you can mix crumbs to the starter mash that you feed the chicks.

Taking care of the chicks will require you to follow manufacturer’s instructions for ratio and proportions of vitamins, minerals, and crumbs that you mix with their food.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, now offering the best guide on movie downloads over at free movie downloads

Keeping Chickens Warm In Winter

The following article lists some simple, informative tips that will help you have a better experience with Keeping Chickens.

If you are worried about your chickens freezing during the winter, keep in mind that you only have to take minor precautions to keep them warm. Remember, chickens normally acclimatize themselves to cold weather. In fact, their physical constitution is more tolerant to cold than to heat. The body warmth they get from simply huddling together during cold weather can go a long way into keeping them warm for most of the winter. However, it doesn’t mean that it’s safe to neglect the environmental conditions that determine the well-being of your poultry during the cold months.

Heat conduction plays a critical role in the wintering of your poultry. Placing a bed of sawdust or bundles of straw in the coop helps in keeping them warm just in case huddling together is not good enough to handle the cool temperature. Setting up a heat lamp in a secure place also helps in providing direct heat just in case a particular chicken has poor tolerance for extremely low temperatures. Just make sure that the heat lamp is at a safe distance to prevent your chickens from getting too close (chickens like to perch, so make sure the heat lamp is at an elevated area that they can’t reach).

A coop that is dry and free of draft (but still ventilated) is very essential to maintaining reasonable heat within the shelter. One thing to avoid is barring the door since chickens love to go outside and exercise every once in a while, even during winter. Make it a point to clear the coop’s surroundings of snow in order for your chickens to have the luxury to venture outside whenever they feel the urge to do so.

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Proper feeding is very important during a chicken’s winter days. Corn is a good supplementary diet since it provides internal warmth. And of course, water needs to be provided daily just like in summer days. I highly recommend using a hard horse rubber dish for the fact that it’s relatively easier to remove the ice without breaking the dish.

Providing roosts is also vital in avoiding your chickens’ toes from freezing. A roost made out of wood is always better than metal or plastic because wood doesn’t conduct cold. The roost should also be wide enough so that the chickens’ feathers can cover the toes and be able to provide warmth into them.

Combs and wattles on chickens can be a big problem since extreme coldness can cause frostbites. Rubbing Vasoline regularly can be a big help to alleviate this particular problem. You can also resort to “dubbing”, which is the process of removing these extra appendages, in the means to fully remove the possibilities of frostbites and the complications that go with it.

Remember that the rules change if you are brooding chicks. They should be kept entirely safe from drafts by placing a solid wall around them. Maintain a heat lamp over them the same way you do with full-grown chickens. If you can’t establish an airtight habitat for them, it is best to avoid the notion of raising them in the winter.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, now offering the best guide on movie downloads over at free movie downloads

Keeping Chicken ? Chicken Parasites, Causes And Treatments

Do you ever feel like you know just enough about Keeping Chickens to be dangerous? Let’s see if we can fill in some of the gaps with the latest info from Keeping Chickens experts.

Chickens in general are a hardy lot, but they are also very susceptible to various chicken parasites, infestations, and diseases. All of this though could be avoided very easily provided the symptoms are recognized early and treatments are done swiftly. Not acting on it soon enough could cause infestation that could contaminate the entire flock.

Causes of Infestation in Chickens

? Overcrowding chickens produces stress that results in lowered resistance against diseases. It is also makes the chicken prone to parasitic diseases and infections.

? Introduction of new birds into the flock without first quarantining the new birds is one of the most common sources of infestation. When additional chickens are needed the best way is to quarantine first the new flock in a separate cage for two weeks and examining and treating them for possible infections before being introduced to the main chicken house.

? Poor sanitation breeds different kinds of bacteria that the chicken is susceptible. The chicken house must be cleaned regularly from manure, dirt, dampness, and waste food to insure that the chicken house sanitary.

If you find yourself confused by what you’ve read to this point, don’t despair. Everything should be crystal clear by the time you finish.

Common Chicken Parasites and its Treatments

Lice ? While lice does not actually bite the chicken but instead eat dead skin, chicken are very uncomfortable with it that results in the chicken pecking at themselves that causes irritation and wounds. When other chicken sees the blood, it attracts their interest that they would peck on the chicken also resulting to depression and death. Lice are usually transmitted by introducing other birds that are infected to the chicken house. To treat lice, spray the infected chicken with sulfur based dust sprays. Malathion solution baths are also effective.

Red Mites ? Breed fast in damp and dark areas. A chicken that is infected with red mites that goes undetected will spread the mites fast to other chickens and will number several millions in a few short days. It could also spread to your other pets, to your house and breed on your beddings. Red mites feed on blood and causes death in chicken when not treated swiftly. The mites are transmitted to the chickens by wild birds and by rodents. Red mites are blackish red in color and will hide from light. When there is evidence of red mites in the area, a chicken bath in Malathion could cure the chicken but all hiding places of the red mites must be disinfected if not burned.

Scaly-leg mites ? You will find scaly-leg mites in between the scales of the leg of the fowl. Once they penetrated the scales, the scales would lift and will cause lameness in the chicken. Unlike the red mites, scaly-leg mites come from infested ground. Brushing the chicken leg with warm soapy water to rid the mites and then painting the leg with a mixture of methyl and olive oil in equal parts plus half a part of kerosene will kill the mites. Make sure though that the solution penetrates the scales.

Fowl ticks ? These chicken parasites are very similar in nature and treatment to the red mites. The fowl ticks however produce tick fever, paralysis, and death when unchecked.

Now might be a good time to write down the main points covered above. The act of putting it down on paper will help you remember what’s important about Keeping Chickens.

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Keeping Chicken ? Chicken Fencing That Saves You Money

The more you understand about any subject, the more interesting it becomes. As you read this article you’ll find that the subject of Keeping Chickens is certainly no exception.

Buying pullets is the easiest. It is also the cheapest. Chicken fencing? That varies. No matter how you look at it though, the cost of the fencing will add up to the cost of the chicken. In high urban areas, raising more than a few chicken would consequently raise eyebrows. In fact, you could be placing yourself in harm’s way. Raising chicken in urban areas are more of pet raising. Commercial? Just don’t.

When you are in a rural location with ample backyard space, keeping chicken is a capital idea. Capital, literally. You see, there is fancy chicken fencing, state of the art fencing and if you could afford electric fencing that is fine too, it would keep the chooks out and hem the chicken in. It will still add up to the costs though, but it is a choice, not a necessity. If you want to travel the frugal route, just as effective albeit not as pleasant to look at, were talking.

You will need corrugated galvanized iron sheets, chicken wire, planks, and whatever means to build them. The idea here is as simple as protecting the chickens and those flowers and plants that adorn the yard as much as keeping the predators out. When building, remember that chicken scratches all over the dirt. To our chagrin, they love it. They could scratch near the fence and before you knew it, the fox and raccoons gets the idea and figures out a way to get their dinner easy.

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The way to prevent this is to sink the bottom of the fence about 10″ into the ground. The area near the fence are usually forgotten so don’t. If that is not possible in some areas along the perimeter, sink 8″ planks to prevent predators from scraping underneath. If foxes roam the area get the thickest chicken wire possible. Foxes have teeth that are as sharp as wire cutters that could easily cut through thin chicken wires.

Normally animals could jump as high as their heads when standing on hind legs. Foxes are about four feet but do not bank on that. Foxes could jump as high as five feet so make the height of the fence a little higher just so the chicken are on the safe side. This may not be as dangerous in hotter months when there are easier prey for the fox to pounce on but during colder months, the fox could hunt more aggressively and get a shelter besides. While at it, do not trim the wire at the top portion of the fence. Leave it rugged.

Use the GI sheets as further protection between the posts where you nail your chicken wire. Nail also thick wire fencing around the portion of the wood with signs of wear to discourage chewing.

Chicken fencing such as this would not win you a prize for best chicken fence design. But bet your neighbor’s dog this will win you savings. Bunches of it

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By Anders Eriksson, proud owner of this top ranked web hosting reseller site: GVO Hosting

Keeping Chicken ? Getting Started: The Pecking Order

Keeping chicken is a practice that dates as far back as when people started domesticating animals. They are fun to have around, are a good food source, and are low maintenance. If you have an ample backyard the idea of keeping chicken may have occurred to you but needed a little more information before getting started.

Of Hens and Roosters

You do not need a rooster. Keeping a rooster is a matter of choice but not actually a necessity. While having these handsome, brassy, noisy, aggressive characters to have around your hens is an attractive choice, the hens are quite content not having a rooster that keeps mounting them as they can lay eggs without the help of the rooster. Chickens are sociable birds. They want to hang around each other most times and cuddle around each other on cold days. You may need only one chicken for a pet however, chicken are happier when in the company of chickens. If you want to keep a few have at least two or three.

The Hen House

Where there are hens, there are predators. Chickens will be happy to be strutting around free range-like but sooner, without a place to roost, you’ll end up losing some. In the country, they attract a lot, in the city they attract rats let alone cats. The hen house then is a good area to shelter and raise them. There are fanciful chicken pen designs that are available everywhere if you do not want to go through the trouble of building them. Fancy chicken pens are good and attractive accessory to your backyard. There are however the basic elements to have for a good chicken house. First chicken love having dust baths during the day. They do it all the time so they must have access to dirt where they can scratch and dig and have fun.

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The Bigger the Better

While chicken are not territorial, they need also their spaces. Crowding them would result to pecking at each other, sometimes even to death. They do this to protect those that catch their fancy. For example, they’ll start pecking at another chicken if it goes too near a string of water droplets running through a hanging string that caught their interest. To prevent overcrowding, allow at least three square feet of space for every chicken. During colder days when they will be huddling hang grass and vegetables that they eat to keep them occupied.

Settling Down

Other people prefer buying pullets and raising them, others want to start with hens. No matter, they will be brought inside their pens to familiarize them to the chicken house. Once there, do not let them out for a while. The chicken has to know very well where the home is otherwise, they will be roosting on branches, roofs, awnings, anywhere they feel safe.

Getting started with chicken is also knowing that they enjoy people leftovers and would fight over it. Their normal fare though is chicken pellets and clean water.

Of course, it’s impossible to put everything about Keeping Chickens into just one article. But you can’t deny that you’ve just added to your understanding about Keeping Chickens, and that’s time well spent.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, proud owner of this top ranked web hosting reseller site: GVO Hosting

Keeping Chicken As Pet

Chicken by nature are evasive of human contact as most animals and birds are. Chickens raised as pets would not tend to run away as much when the bond and the trust have already been established. They would not mind too much the stroking and the cuddling when truly acclimatized to human contact. The chicken may run to you when they know that you bring a treat but that is just as far as it usually goes.

The evasiveness is not totally lost. From time to time, even, with the best care, they would try to steer clear of people. Staying clear out of people and other animals is its natural inclination and often its only defense to survive longer. To raise chicken as pets that will follow you around, seek your company and even nap in your lap, hand raise the chicken while still a baby chick. When the chick is handled gently and treated well, good bonding results, so does trust.

Chicks are one of those gentle precocious creatures and they are fun to watch and nice to have around. They could very well eat whatever little morsels given to them and walk around after hatching. Very young chicks though will need a heat source. In place of the mother hen, that provides the heat by gathering them under the wings, you will need a lamp as their source of heat.

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You will also want a place to keep them. Young chicks would fit well in a shoebox or something similar so long as there are small openings for ventilation. Stuff the box with paper towels, as they are easier to replace daily. Clip the lamp in the lip of the box and cover it with cloth to regulate the heat. Ideally, the heat inside the box should be warm to the touch but not exceed 90 deg Fahrenheit.

The chick will also need layers mash or starter mash inside the box and clean water. Provide the water in a shallow dish weighed down with pebbles to keep the water from spilling as chicks would scratch and walk about in the box. You would know if the chick in uncomfortable or hungry when they peep loudly, when not, the chick chirps contentedly. As the chick grows, food consistency will be different. Starting from a starter mash, it will need crumbles and then pellets. This is no cause for worry though as the feed is basically made of the same mixtures and components, the differences accounts for the degree of coarseness of the milling only.

As the pullets grow, it will eat just about anything that catches its interest. It will also need a dirt run, preferably a sunny spot, to take dirt baths on. For this reason, it is best to supervise its activity if you have a garden, as it would peck at grass as well as the next Begonia.

Keeping chicken as pets is great to those who love its very sociable nature.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, proud owner of this top ranked web hosting reseller site: GVO Hosting

Keeping Chicken ? Chicken Sour Crop, Prevention and Treatment

The following article lists some simple, informative tips that will help you have a better experience with Keeping Chickens.

A chicken’s crop is just below its neck and at the center of its chest. This is the chicken’s food storage and also where the first stage of digestion takes place. Often, a chicken eats more than it could digest, when that happens the chicken develops a sour crop.

Detection and Symptoms

You would know if the chicken has sour crop if there is a bulge at the center of the chest of the chicken (often bigger than a gulf ball) making the chicken very uncomfortable and moving the head in a funny sort of way. When you open the beak, there is often a sour, foul smell. When you touch the chickens crop and there is that hard yet squishy feeling, sour crop is setting in if it is not yet impacted. What complicates this is that even when the chicken appears to be lethargic; it will still try to eat even when the crop is full, then the chicken suffers more.

Prevention of Sour Crop

The crop is a vital organ in chicken that you have to keep a close watch on. As chickens are likely to eat just about anything, sour crop usually occurs. When chickens feed, the crop will normally bulge. But then a healthy chicken with a crop that is working well will have emptied the crop overnight. If the crop has not, there is something wrong with digestion. To aid digestion, the chicken feeds on grits. Grits are bought in any farm and poultry supply store, the grit is then mixed with the chicken feed that aids digestion.

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Normally, healthy foraging chickens will swallow small pebbles. They know what to select and what is good for them. However if the chicken is not let out of the coop for long periods, they miss this digestion aids. Another thing that is common to most animals is to eat a particular grass for a particular illness. When the chicken has sour crop, the chicken feels the illness and will forage for grass. This often complicates the sour crop, as long strands of grass are harder to digest.

To prevent the onset of sour crop, check the chickens once in a while as the crops are likely to be empty every morning before they feed. Observe also the kind of grass that the chicken feeds on when they have a sour crop so you can chop the grass into smaller sizes and feed this to the chicken to treat the sour crop or when a similar problem occurs in the future.

Once a month, mix one teaspoon of apple cider vinegar to every liter of water in the chicken’s water supply. When you do, buy the vinegar from farm shops and not those sold in the supermarkets.

Treatment

Hold the chicken upside down to induce vomiting. Massage the crop gently to release the food that is stacked. This should be done with rest times to prevent the chicken from choking and the liquid from entering the respiratory system. Feed the chicken with live yoghurt mixed with chopped grass, pellets and apple cider solution. You may repeat this for a few days until the chicken is relieved.

Hopefully the sections above have contributed to your understanding of Keeping Chickens. Share your new understanding about Keeping Chickens with others. They’ll thank you for it.

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By Anders Eriksson, proud owner of this top ranked web hosting reseller site: GVO Hosting

Keeping Chicken ? Bumble Foot

The following article includes pertinent information that may cause you to reconsider what you thought you understood. The most important thing is to study with an open mind and be willing to revise your understanding if necessary.

Bumblefoot is the growth and accumulation of the hard tissues in the foot that gets swollen, is inflamed and may be painful to chickens. Vets and pharma research terminologies explain technical terms and causes better, but for most of us these will only be gobbledygook and so here is how laypeople will see it and prevent it.

The symptoms

An abscess forms in the sole of the feet of the chicken and often these are overlooked as bumble foot in chicken looks very much like calluses. The foot of the chicken is swollen and often hard tissues build up. Then the chicken starts to limp, where in more serious cases there is blood in the footprints. Bumble foot in chicken could deform the feet severely but when detected early treatments are easier.

The Causes

Perches -Bumble feet starts with a bruise in the feet that results later to small wounds that are infected. These are due to the habit of chickens to perch anywhere and everywhere that suits them. Perching in very narrow wires, runs on floors made of wires and perching on narrow edges and sharp corners causes bumble feet. Another usual cause is jumping from too high perches and landing hard.

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Improper Nutrition -Bumble feet is also likely to occur when there is insufficient Vitamin A in the system. Seeds, a chicken favorite are low in vitamin A. The vitamin promotes increases resistance to parasite infection aside from promoting digestion and appetite. An obvious sign that the chicken lacks vitamin A is when the plumage lacks the usual luster, is pale, and is rough. There is also the lack of color intensity in the cere and there is yellowish and scaly accumulation on the beak.

Infections ? The little wounds and lacerations on the soles of the feet, is a good breeding ground for parasites and bacteria that when left untreated will eat the bone, become acute and endanger the life of the chicken.

Prevention ? Provide good perching areas inside the coop and replace the chicken run made of wires. Provide the perimeter where the chickens are kept with perches with varying circumferences.

Chicken will eat just about anything and so they respond will with vitamin supplementation. Provide food that is rich in Vitamin A. Carrot for one is a very good source that the chicken likes. Greens are also good sources of the vitamins and so are pumpkins and potatoes. Throw in vegetable and fruit peels, as chicken loves this. It has been shown time and again that once the vitamin deficiency is resolved, bumble feet heals.

The Treatments ? Antibiotics cures bumble foot. When the infection is not severe, the method is to clean the feet first in warm water for ten minutes before applying the ointment or the antibiotic. If the bumble feet is severe, soak the feet in warm water for ten minutes, use a sharp knife, remove the scabs working around it removing the scabs the puss until you are left with a clean hole, apply the ointment or the antibiotic, bandage the foot or use a vet rap and repeat the process every day until the bumble foot is healed.

The day will come when you can use something you read about here to have a beneficial impact. Then you’ll be glad you took the time to learn more about Keeping Chickens.

About the Author
By Taylor Swift Tickets, feel free to visit our Taylor Swift Tickets site: Taylor Swift Tickets
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Keeping Chicken ? Preventing Chicken From Eating Their Eggs

Chickens love to peck. Normally though they do not peck their own eggs but when it starts and nothing is done to keep them from doing it, they would develop the taste of the eggs and the habit could form. To prevent chickens from eating their eggs, try the following.

Feed your chicken grits. Grits are purchased in your local farm supply store or you could make your own. To make grits, roast eggshells until they are brownish and crunchy. Pound the shells and mix it with chicken feed. Chicken that does not have enough calcium in their diet will try to find it elsewhere and eggshells are an alternative source. Make sure that the feed has enough calcium and protein.

When an eggshell is weak, it could easily break and when it does, the chicken will start pecking on it. Weak eggshells are signs that the chicken lacks Vitamin D3, protein, calcium, or has an infection. Check for infection aside from feed composition.

Most of this information comes straight from the Keeping Chickens pros. Careful reading to the end virtually guarantees that you’ll know what they know.

When there are no infections and the feed is sufficient, it could be that the nest box is too hard. Provide padding for the nest to prevent accidents to the egg even when the chicken shuffles and scratches around the nest box. Keep the nest box dark. Chickens are less likely to keep on moving around in darker places. Dark nest boxes keep the chicken relaxed. When hens are less agitated they are less likely to trample on eggs. Limit also the number of chickens in a nest box. A typical nest box could accommodate four hens. Less hen for every nest box is better.

Do not feed the eggshells to the chickens. Gather the shells and clean up the coop, likewise, do not feed the dirtied eggs to chickens. Introducing the chicken to the egg will start them developing a taste for it that could start the habit. Chicken could also start pecking at the eggs if they are bored. Keep them busy by hanging vegetable scraps tied to a string for them to peck.

Collect eggs as often as twice a day if you can. That way you could monitor the production of the eggs better. When the eggs are reduced, and the causes are eggs that were pecked on, isolate the chicken pecking on the eggs. You could find that out when a chicken has egg residues in the beak. When the chicken is isolated, feed the chicken with liquid milk for a while. If isolating the chicken is not possible, try trimming the upper beak.

Another method to prevent the chicken from eating their eggs is to place golf balls in the nest box. Pecking on a golf ball will discourage the habit from forming. If you have done this and the egg supply does not return to normal, find out if rodents are getting into your nest box. Whatever the case though, prevent the chicken from tasting their eggs because when the habit is formed, it will almost be impossible to break.

Knowing enough about Keeping Chickens to make solid, informed choices cuts down on the fear factor. If you apply what you’ve just learned about Keeping Chickens, you should have nothing to worry about.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, now offering the best guide on movie downloads over at free movie downloads

Keeping Chickens Healthy

As the old adage goes, “health is wealth”, and it brings home the point when one considers the importance of keeping our bipedal companions free from diseases or any debilitating illness. After all, we constantly require eggs and chicken meat from them, so it goes to show that the general health of the poultry can be important to sustain our own.

THE PERFECT ENVIRONMENT

The general well being of a chicken starts with the environment. While it’s true that chickens adapt real well to both cold and hot weather, constant exposure to harsh climates can still get the best of them. That’s why a coop or a hen house should be set up, while making sure that it’s well ventilated and free from draft. Make sure that the perches are not too high to prevent any foot injuries. Keeping the chicken house devoid of moisture also helps prevent diseases that result from ammonia and other toxic gases.

Think about what you’ve read so far. Does it reinforce what you already know about Keeping Chickens? Or was there something completely new? What about the remaining paragraphs?

And of course, you have to maintain cleanliness in the coop and its surrounding environs to prevent the proliferation of mites, lice and other critters. These pests can cause serious health risks if left alone. Regular cleaning through the use of clean water and disinfectants should always be undertaken to maintain a healthy environment for your chickens.

PROTECTION FROM PREDATORS
Chickens are delectable treats for any predators prowling the area around the coop. To ensure the safety of your hens, make sure that the coop and the fence around it is well sealed. Do not settle for just any wire to build the fence, and use one that is durable. The fence should be high enough that even high leapers can’t jump over it, and its bottom buried deep enough (20 inches at the very least) under the ground to prevent predators from burrowing underneath.

PROPER FEEDING AND WATERING
Just like with any livestock, chickens need a well-balanced diet and a daily intake of water. A waterer device is a great tool for providing drinking water due to its timer and operant conditioning capabilities. Chickens have a formulated diet that depends on their needs as befits their age and what they’re meant to provide. You might do well to do some research on the recommended diet for your chickens to ensure that they are getting the proper nutrition they require.

GIVING CHICKENS THEIR SPACE
Not giving chickens enough space to move about or “free-range” can induce a lot of stress in them, which in turn becomes detrimental to their health. Crowding can also lead to lots of fighting inside the coop, and will eventually run the risk of some chickens getting seriously hurt. Remember that each chicken should have a two square foot of shelter and a three square foot of run area, so take note of the amount of space you have in your back yard when choosing the amount of chickens you want to raise. If there’s not enough, then make sure to clear enough space for them to run about as soon as possible.

As your knowledge about Keeping Chickens continues to grow, you will begin to see how Keeping Chickens fits into the overall scheme of things. Knowing how something relates to the rest of the world is important too.

About the Author
By Anders Eriksson, now offering the best guide on movie downloads over at free movie downloads

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